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本革と合皮をイメージした二つの素材片と裏面の違いを描いたイラスト

What Is Leather? Understand Genuine and Synthetic Materials and Find a Bag You Love

Start looking for a leather bag and you'll soon encounter names such as genuine leather, cowhide and PU leather. They can all look leather-like, so it's easy to feel a little unsure at first.

You don't need to become an expert to choose a bag you'll enjoy. Are you drawn to a surface that develops with use, or a shape that suits what you're wearing now? Start with that feeling as we make sense of the names.

Leather originally means tanned animal hide

Leather means animal hide that has been tanned into a usable material. Familiar examples include cowhide, horsehide and sheepskin. Alongside tanning, dyeing and surface finishes create many different looks and feels.

In product names, the word also appears in terms such as PU leather and faux leather for synthetic materials. Read the main material information alongside the name. That small habit can reduce surprises after buying.

Genuine leather and different kinds of synthetic leather

Genuine leather is natural leather made from animal hide. Some types develop enjoyable changes in tone and sheen with use, although the way they change depends on the leather and finish.

Synthetic leather generally uses resin over a backing such as fabric to create a leather-like surface. PU leather uses polyurethane. Japanese material terminology also distinguishes engineered artificial leather made with a special nonwoven backing designed to resemble natural leather's fibre structure.

These materials don't all look the same, and their care differs. Avoid carrying a treatment straight from one material to another, such as applying genuine-leather oil to synthetic leather. Choose a method suited to the product.

Read the label for the animal and the finish

Beyond the label 'genuine leather', names such as cowhide and horsehide identify the source animal. Tanning and surface-finish descriptions add another layer. Different names sometimes describe different aspects of the material.

Is it glossy, visibly grained or varied in tone? Looking at photographs alongside the description gradually helps you recognise the textures you like. You don't need to learn every term at once; start with a piece that interests you.

For varied tones, explore crazy horse leather

The crazy horse leather mini shoulder bag featured here is cowhide. Despite 'horse' in the name, it isn't horsehide. Its relaxed appearance comes from tonal changes at bends and light scuffs.

It may appeal if you like a finish that isn't too uniform or want something to wear with vintage clothes. Watching sheen and creases develop with use can become a small everyday pleasure.

Then ask whether it suits your belongings and clothes

A day with a few essentials calls for a different shape from one with plenty to carry. Once you know the leather type, compare dimensions, weight, closures and pockets with your own belongings.

For shoulder or crossbody wear, notice where the strap touches your clothes. With pale outfits, take care about colour transfer from rain or sweat while enjoying the combinations you love.

A small cowhide bag and an oversized PU option

A mini bag to enjoy the texture close up, or a large shape that changes an outfit's balance? Look at material and size together to find a piece you'd like to use.

A flap mini shoulder bag for enjoying leather up close

A flap mini shoulder bag for enjoying leather up close

A genuine leather mini shoulder bag measuring approximately 20 × 15 × 6.5 cm. Its flap closes with a magnetic button, making it a shape to consider for a weekend with small essentials. It adds varied leather tones to everyday clothes without the presence of a much larger bag.

Explore the flap mini shoulder bag

An oversized PU leather bag with a striking silhouette

An oversized PU leather bag with a striking silhouette

A PU leather bag measuring approximately 70 × 40 × 28 cm, with a nylon lining and an open top without a zip. For those who enjoy a large silhouette and easy access to belongings. With that wide opening, consider rain and how you'll carry valuables, too.

Explore the oversized PU leather bag

Start everyday care with dust removal

You don't need to buy a whole range of care products at the start. Remove everyday dust with a soft, dry cloth, and blot away water promptly before allowing the leather to dry. Test any cream suited to the material and finish in a hidden area first.

Even genuine leather may need different treatment for a napped or specialised surface, so begin with the product's guidance. Knowing the material helps you keep using it without unnecessary fuss.

Common questions about leather terminology

Do 'leather' and 'genuine leather' mean the same thing?

Leather traditionally means tanned hide, but product names also include synthetic materials such as PU leather. If you're looking for genuine leather, check the main material description.

Which material should I choose for my first bag?

If you enjoy changes in colour and sheen, look for genuine leather with those qualities. If you'd like a particular look or shape from the start, synthetic leather is another option. Consider when you'll use it and how you'll care for it alongside the material name.

Once the words become a little more familiar, browsing product photographs becomes more enjoyable, too. Don't let the names hold you back. Look for a colour you love, a texture you'd like to touch and a shape you want to take out.

About the author

Yama (Cowmono Owner)

Yama has worked in sales and marketing at apparel companies in Japan and abroad, with a broad interest in fashion, sport, outdoor pursuits and subcultures.

Instagram@cowmono_official