What is leather? Differences between genuine leather and synthetic leather, and how to choose leather products based on type and finish

When you're looking for a leather bag, you'll come across words that seem similar but have different meanings, such as genuine leather, cowhide, PU leather, and oil leather. If you are confused about which one to choose, it may be because the name of the material and the name of the processing are used together.

The first thing to consider is whether the leather is made from processed animal skin or another material that resembles it. If you then look at the ingredients, finish, and ease of use as a bag, it will be easier to choose the item that suits you.

Points to check when in doubt
things to check Points to see
material See display for genuine leather, synthetic leather, etc.
finishing Check surface texture and care methods
Purpose Consider the use case and maintenance burden.

Leather is a material made from tanned animal skin.

Leather corresponds to the English word Leather, and in Japanese it is also called leather, genuine leather, and natural leather. The Japan Leather Industry Federation's glossary describes it as a product that has been tanned to prevent decomposition while retaining most of the fiber structure of animal skin. [1]

“Tanning” is the process of converting leather into a state where it can be used as a practical product. Unlike drying raw material skin, it is made into a material with flexibility and durability. However, if it is made of leather, this does not mean that it is safe even if it gets wet.

Raw materials include not only cows, but also sheep, goats, pigs, and horses, and even leather from the same animal can have different textures depending on its thickness and processing. It is important not to judge the finished product just by saying things like "It's hard because it's cowhide" or "It's heavy because it's genuine leather."

A bit of a technical note: the standard of 0.15mm for the surface layer

The definition of JIS K 6541 introduced by the same dictionary also requires that the thickness of the material including finish coating and surface layer be 0.15 mm or less. This is a standard that indicates the range of the term leather, and is not a passing score for the overall thickness or durability of the bag's leather. [1]

What is the difference between genuine leather, synthetic leather, and artificial leather?

There are also different types of materials that look similar to leather. Even if they look similar in the photo, if the structure is different, the care method will be different, so check not only the product name but also the material column. [2] [3]

nickname basic structure Things to look at before buying
Genuine leather/natural leather tanned animal skin Information on animal types, surface finishes, and care
synthetic leather Products that use resin as a base material such as cloth to create a surface similar to leather Description of PU/PVC, etc., parts used, and handling methods
artificial leather Using non-woven fabric and resin, the structure is similar to that of leather. Specific explanation of the material and performance suitable for the application

In stores and mail order, "synthetic leather" is sometimes used in a broad sense. Also, even if the word "leather" is included in the product name, it does not mean the same as natural leather if it is also written with "PU". If you are unsure, it will be easier to organize by checking the materials of the outer material, lining material, and handle.

You don't need to drip water or hold fire close to it to find out if it's genuine leather. Whether or not it absorbs water depends on the finish, and trying to tell the difference may end up creating stains or scratches, so give priority to labeling and seller's explanations.

Read the names of materials from three perspectives.

1. What kind of skin is it made of?

The descriptions such as cowhide, sheepskin, and horsehide refer to the different animals used as raw materials. First, you can see the type of natural leather by looking here, and then compare product information such as thickness, weight, texture, etc.

2. How is it tanned?

Methods include vegetable tanning, chrome tanning, and a combination of both. The tanning method is related to the properties of the leather, but the name alone does not determine superiority or inferiority, but the term is considered in conjunction with the finish and purpose of use. [1]

3. What kind of surface finish is used?

The gloss, uniformity of color, presence or absence of brushing, and the appearance when rubbed are clues to the surface treatment. In the Tsuchiya bag glossary, the surface side of the leather body is called the silver side, and the side of the flesh side is called the floor side, and finishes such as suede where the floor side is used as the outside are also introduced. [3]

In this way, raw materials, tanning, and finishing are different stories. If you list cowhide and oil leather as separate materials, or treat suede as a uniformly lower grade, it will actually become harder to tell the difference.

crazy horse leatherAlso, choose leather based on its expression.

Crazy Horse Leather sold by cowmono is a product made from cowhide rather than horsehide. The appeal of this product is that you can enjoy the shading that comes with a finish that contains wax or oil, and the luster that changes as you use it, but not all products are the same thickness or tanned in the same way.

A useful term for understanding this look is "pull-up finish." In the glossary, it is described as a finish in which light and dark colors appear when leather soaked with oil or wax is bent or rubbed. [4]

This feature will appeal to those who want to enjoy small shades of color, but it may be of concern to those who want to maintain a uniform color all the time. In addition to the atmosphere of the photo, if you think about what kind of changes you would enjoy, your impression after the purchase will be less likely to change.

When choosing leather products, choose the material and the occasion in which it will be used.

Just because it says genuine leather doesn't mean it will last for decades or be scratch-proof. A bag is a tool that combines not only leather but also seams, lining, zippers, metal fittings, etc., and it is also important to have a structure that suits the way it is used.

  • For daily commuting: Check the dimensions, openings, pocket positions, and weight of the PC and documents.
  • For a holiday outing: Think about whether your wallet and smartphone will fit in with your clothes.
  • To be together for a long time: Check the care instructions and contact information if you have any problems.

Price is also a deciding factor, but don't assume that synthetic leather is cheap because it's cheap, or that it's durable because it's expensive; look at the materials and construction individually. For information on how to purchase and sell cowmono,Why we can achieve low pricesWe will guide you in

Initial care is more about knowing than painting.

When you receive the product, read the material label and usage instructions, and remember the color and feel of the product when it was new. Usually, I lightly dust the items and store them so that they don't get wet and I don't forcefully crush them.

Creams and waterproofing sprays do not work equally well on all leathers. Coronil also recommends checking the material and testing it in an inconspicuous place before use. Even if it is a special product, please check the available finishes before using it. [5]

Frequently asked questions

Will genuine leather be able to enjoy changes over time?
Changes in color and luster vary depending on the finish of the leather and how it is used. Not all genuine leather turns amber in the same way.

Does Genuine Leather mean top quality?
This symbol is used to indicate genuine leather, but this symbol alone does not determine the quality of the entire product. [3]

Aren't all natural wrinkles and uneven coloring a defect?
Although they may appear in the appearance of the material, there is no need to assume that tearing or sewing abnormalities are characteristics of natural materials. Before use, please take a photo of any areas of concern and check with the seller.

After knowing the materials, choose two items that are suitable for everyday use.

A small bag that allows you to enjoy leather up close, and a bag that organizes your work tools. Even with the same genuine leather, the way you choose it will change depending on the occasion you use it.

Crazy horse leather mini shoulder bag_T

Mini shoulder bag_T is a flap type with approximately 20 x 15 x 6.5 cm. It opens and closes with a magnetic button, and has a zipper pocket and partitions on the inside, making it an easy choice for a holiday companion who wants to keep small items separate.

Crazy horse leather mini shoulder bag_T

See photos, storage, and specifications →

Also check the thickness and opening of the small items you carry. The stated dimensions alone do not guarantee storage.

Genuine leather shoulder bag_H

Genuine leather shoulder bag_H is a business bag measuring approximately 42 x 16 x 29 cm. This model has a PC storage space and pockets for small items, making it suitable for those who want to separate their work luggage, while also weighing approximately 2 kg.

Genuine leather shoulder bag_H

See photos, storage, and specifications →

Please check the external dimensions of the PC including the case and the dimensions of the storage space.

Reference source/annotation

  1. Japan Leather Industry Federation | Leather terminology dictionary “Leather”: Explanation of leather and tanning, definition of terms in JIS K 6541. 0.15mm is the value for the surface layer
  2. "Synthetic leather": Structure of base material and resin
  3. Tsuchiya Bag Manufacturing | Dictionary of bag and leather terms/Leather basics: Silver surface, floor surface, artificial leather, genuine leather notation
  4. Japan Leather Industry Federation | Leather terminology dictionary “Pull-up finish”
  5. Coronil | Precautions for use

Terms and general material properties are not guarantees of performance for individual products. Please check the information on each product page for product specifications and handling instructions.

Author information

Author name: Yama (Cowmono Owner)

Self-introduction: Engaged in sales and marketing for more than a quarter at domestic and overseas apparel companies. He has a deep knowledge of fashion, sports, outdoor activities, and subculture.

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