What Is Leather? Genuine and Synthetic Materials, Types and Finishes

When shopping for a leather bag, you may see genuine leather, cowhide, PU leather and oiled leather side by side. These terms can be confusing because some name the material while others describe its treatment.

Start by distinguishing tanned animal hide from a different material made to resemble it. Then consider the animal source, finish and practical features of the bag to find what suits you.

Leather is animal hide preserved by tanning

Leather is also called natural or genuine leather. The Japan Leather Industry Association's terminology guide describes it as animal hide that has been tanned to resist decay while broadly retaining its fibrous structure. [1]

Tanning processes hide into a usable material with properties such as flexibility and durability, rather than simply drying the raw skin. It does not make leather immune to water.

Leather can come from cattle, sheep, goats, pigs or horses. Even within one animal type, thickness and processing change the feel. Do not judge a finished item solely by assumptions such as cowhide being stiff or genuine leather being heavy.

A technical detail: the 0.15 mm surface-layer limit

The guide's definition based on JIS K 6541 includes a limit of 0.15 mm for an added surface coating or layer. This defines the scope of the term leather; it is not the thickness of the entire bag material or a durability benchmark. [1]

How do leather, synthetic leather and engineered imitation leather differ?

Materials that resemble leather also differ in construction. Similar photographs do not mean similar care requirements, so check the composition rather than relying on the product name. [2] [3]

Imitation leather can be used as a broad label in shops. A name containing leather does not necessarily mean animal leather, especially if it also says PU. If unsure, check the outer material, lining and handles separately.

Do not test authenticity with water or fire. Water absorption also depends on the finish, and these tests may leave stains or damage. Rely on material information and the seller's explanation.

Read material names from three different angles

1. Which animal does it come from?

Cowhide, sheepskin and horsehide identify the animal source. Start there, then compare product details such as thickness, weight and feel.

2. How is it tanned?

Methods include vegetable tanning, chrome tanning and combinations of the two. Tanning affects the properties, but the name alone does not establish quality; consider the finish and intended use as well. [1]

3. How is the surface finished?

Sheen, colour uniformity, nap and the look of scuffs offer clues to the finish. Tsuchiya Kaban's glossary distinguishes the outer grain side from the inner flesh side and describes finishes such as suede that use the flesh side as the surface. [3]

Animal source, tanning and finishing are separate subjects. Treating cowhide and oiled leather as mutually exclusive materials, or all suede as a lower grade, makes the differences harder to understand.

Crazy Horse Leather should also be chosen for its appearance

The Crazy Horse leather products sold by cowmono use cowhide, not horsehide. Their wax- or oil-containing finish can offer tonal variation and a changing sheen, but not every item has the same thickness or tanning method.

Pull-up finish is a useful term for understanding this effect. The terminology guide describes light and dark colour changes when leather containing oils or waxes is bent or rubbed. [4]

This may appeal if you enjoy small tonal changes, but less so if you want a consistently uniform colour. Consider which changes you would enjoy, alongside the product photos.

Match the material to how you will use the item

Genuine leather does not by itself promise decades of use or freedom from scratches. A bag also includes stitching, lining, zips and hardware, so its construction must suit your needs.

• For the daily commute: check laptop and document dimensions, the opening, pocket positions and bag weight
• For days out: check that your usual wallet and phone fit and consider how the bag works with your clothes
• For long-term use: review care instructions and where to seek advice if a problem arises

Price is one consideration, but a low price does not prove imitation leather and a high price does not guarantee durability. Assess material and construction separately. For cowmono's sourcing and selling approach, see How cowmono keeps prices affordable for more information.

Start care by learning about the material

On arrival, read the material and handling information and note the original colour and feel. For everyday care, remove dust gently, avoid putting it away wet and store it without crushing its shape.

Creams and waterproofing sprays are not equally suitable for every leather. Collonil advises checking the material and testing in an inconspicuous place. Even specialist products require a check of the compatible finish. [5]

FAQ

Does every genuine leather develop a patina?
Changes in colour and sheen depend on the finish and use. Not every leather develops the same amber tone.

Does Genuine Leather mean the highest grade?
It indicates real leather, but those words alone do not establish the highest quality for the whole product. [3]

Are all natural wrinkles and colour variations acceptable?
They can be part of the material's appearance, but tears or faulty stitching should not automatically be treated as natural characteristics. Photograph any concern before use and ask the seller.

Two bags for different everyday needs

A smaller bag for enjoying leather every day and a bag for work essentials serve different needs. Even with the same broad material category, the right choice depends on use.

Crazy Horse Leather Mini Shoulder Bag — Style T

Mini Shoulder Bag T is a flap-style bag measuring approximately 20 × 15 × 6.5 cm. It closes with a magnetic button and has an inner zipped pocket and dividers for organising small items on days out.

View photographs, storage and specifications →

Check the thickness of your belongings and the opening too. Listed dimensions alone do not guarantee that items will fit.

Cowhide Shoulder Bag — Style H

Genuine Leather Shoulder Bag H is a business bag of approximately 42 × 16 × 29 cm, with a laptop compartment and pockets for small items. Consider its approximately 2 kg weight as well as its organisation features.

View photographs, storage and specifications →

Compare the laptop's external dimensions, including its case, with the storage compartment dimensions.

References and notes

1. Japan Leather Industry Association | Leather terminology: leather: leather, tanning and the JIS K 6541 definition. The 0.15 mm value relates to the surface layer.
2. Same guide: synthetic leather: base materials and resin construction
3. Tsuchiya Kaban | Bag and leather glossary: leather basics: grain and flesh sides, engineered imitation leather and genuine leather labels
4. Japan Leather and Leather Goods Industries Association | Glossary: Pull-up finish
5. Collonil | Instructions for use

Terminology and general material properties do not guarantee the performance of individual products. Check each product page for specifications and handling instructions.